Previously named My Sloper Collar, My Sloper Neckwear 2.0 includes 3 new collar designs and a Dickey module as well.  With My Sloper Neckwear 2.0, a home business specializing in making modest clothing for women and girls can add a line of dickeys with a variety of 15 collar designs to its repertoire.

Let’s go through the different modules supported by My Sloper Neckwear 2.0.

Draft Neckline Module

If you remember the history of My Sloper, you will remember that KosherPatterns ® offered the ability to draft necklines of any size freely on its Web-version.  This is how My Sloper began.  The drafting of necklines is based on our unique technique of drafting a natural neckline.

Draft Neckline

Draft Neck Facing Module

Drafting neck facings is an extension of drafting necklines, and we offered this in My Sloper as the next feature.  Neck facings are needed for collarless garments and are essential for completing such a garment.

Draft Neck Facing

Draft Collar Module

Draft Collars

We have expanded our collar collection from 12 to 15.

New Collars

We can basically classify our collars into these groups below.

Shirt Collars

Traditional Full-Roll Collar

The Traditional Full-Roll Collar is a simple yet essential collar to enhance a modest garment. Originally designed for men’s shirts, this style provides additional coverage for the neck.  It can be implemented with or without a collar stand.  What’s special about this collar is that it hugs the neck nicely.

Convertible Collar

Previously known in My Sloper Collar as Convertible Collar Style A, this collar has been renamed simply as the Convertible Collar.  A cousin of the Traditional Full-Roll Collar, this collar has a curved bottom edge to fit the curved neckline much better.

Sport Collar Style A

Previously known as the Convertible Collar Style B, this collar has been renamed the Sport Collar Style A.  A significant feature of this collar is that it is designed to provide ventilation at the back of the neck and hence, the Sport Collar does not hug the neck totally.  As its name suggests, this collar is ideal for sporting activities.  This collar is also designed to have a wider front than the back.

Sport Collar Style B

Previously known as the Convertible Collar Style C, this collar has been renamed the Sport Collar Style B, a variant of the Sport Collar Style A.  It differs than Style A in that the front collar maintains the same width as the back collar.

Peter Pan Collars

Peter Pan Flat Collar

The Peter Pan Flat Collar is a classic flat collar with the option to “roll” and the option to have a pointed or rounded front corner.  Even the roundness is configurable!  When the collar roll increases, you will find the gap between the front collars widening.

Feminine Full-Roll Collar

The Feminine Full-Roll Collar, as its name suggests, is the opposite of the Shirt Collar in that it hugs the neckline in a soft and feminine kind of way.  If you notice any of the Shirt Collar styles above, you will be able to spot the shape of the collar at its top resembling the letter ‘V’, whereas you will find a collar in this category maintaining a rounded shape at its top. This style can be configured to have a pointed or rounded front corner.

Feminine Semi-Roll Collar

The Feminine Semi-Roll Collar is a variant of the Feminine Full-Roll Collar that offers less than a full roll.  You also have the option to configure this collar’s front corner to be either pointed or rounded.

Cowl Collars

Cowl Collar

The Cowl Collar is a very flattering feminine collar that provides soft flowing drapes around the neckline. It has been one of the most popular collar styles besides the Peter Pan collar variety.  This collar is ideal for soft knit fabric, with or without textures.  See in the gallery below for more ideas for this collar.

Jabot Collars

Pleated Jabot Collar

The Pleated Jabot Collar resembles a Square Collar but it is more flair in the front than the back;  its center front has an inverted box-pleat. You may configure its front collar width to be bigger than its back collar width.  This collar can be sewn in either knit or woven fabrics.

Frill & Tie Collars

Frill Collar

The Frill Collar is a Victorian-style collar that is lovable in this generation as well.  Designed with a buttoned collar stand in mind, the Frill Collar has the option to configure the width of its frill as well as its stand.

Bow and Frill Collar

The Bow & Frill Collar has a long tie-able ribbon bow as its closing. You can configure the width of the collar stand, the width and length of the bow.

Tie Collar

The Tie Collar is a collar plus imitation men’s tie in one.  This collar gives you the option to configure the width of its collar stand and tie.  You may need to learn how to tie a tie.

Draft Dickey Module

Draft Dickey

The Dickey Module supports two neckline styles: Jewel and Cowl. In addition, these opening style are supported: Back Zipper, Front Zipper, Front Add-on Button-stand, and Front Separate Button-stand.  You can configure the length and width of the dickey.  This dickey design has been used widely by commercial dickeys sold exclusively on ModestAnytime.com.  You may read client testimonials as a vote of confidence.  My Sloper Neckwear 2.0 is a great investment for a home business wishing to specialize in custom made dickeys with its variety of collar choices.

Gallery

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The post My Sloper Neckwear 2.0 Released appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.

Starting Version 1.71, you can create a very modest cowl neckline on your blouses and dresses.

Cowl Neckline on a Basic Blouse made with luxurious velour fabric

Modest Cowl Neckline Blouse paired with A-line Skirt

For blouses, all bodice styles except the A-line bodice support the cowl neckline option.  For dresses, only the waisted bodice styles (natural, empire and drop waist) support the cowl neckline option. Here are a few samples of blouses that we’ve created for your viewing pleasure.  Some of the styles are available for custom order at ModestAnytime.com.

Cowl Neckline on an Empire Waistline

Cowl Neckline on a Basic Blouse

Cowl Neckline with Band Collar on High Empire Waistline Dress

Caftan Sleeves Cowl Neckline Blouson Top

Buy My Sloper Blouse or Dress to get these beautiful cowl patterns!

The post Modest Cowl Neckline appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.

A video tutorial on how to easily draw neck facings with My Sloper. The process is so simple and quick.

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The post How to Design Neck Facings appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.

Follow this tutorial to find out a simple but accurate way of testing to see if the neckline you’ve drafted fits well on the subject.

Very often, we sew a complete test garment sometimes called a muslin or toile and try to fit it to a subject. Then, we attempt to find whatever flaws we have on the muslin on a whole-garment approach. Here is a way to only focus on the neckline portion of the subject without wasting fabric for an entire test garment.

How to Sew a Test Neckline Tutorial

The post How to Sew a Test Neckline Tutorial appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.

When it comes to drafting the front and back necklines on a sloper, you will find a variety of techniques taught by different teachers and drafting manuals. Most likely you will find that the sources do not explain why certain numbers and formulae are used. You simply have to memorize them. In this tutorial, you will learn yet another new technique that is more explanatory and what we call more “natural”. In addition, for our observant Jewish readers, the technique taught satisfies the modest requirements for a kosher neckline.

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The post How to Design Natural Necklines appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.

A flounce on a top or dress adds a feminine touch to the wearer. This tutorial will show you how to design flounce trims for the neckline and bodice armscye that goes over the sleeve top with My Sloper.

Specify the neck girth and use this measurement for the flounce styling.

Flounce Styling

For the neckline, we use 2 identical Spiral Flounce patterns sewn together at the widest width seam line. In order for the neckline flounce to match the neckline, we need to enter half the “Neck Girth” measurement for the Flounce Length. Use only half the Neck Girth from the bodice as the Flounce Length measurement. Select Spiral for the Flounce Style. A spiral flounce has two varying widths, a shorter width at one end and a wider width at the other. Specify the shorter width as Flounce Width 1 and the longer width as Flounce Width 2. Copy the General Seam Allowance from the Bodice Styling into the General Seam Allowance in the Flounce Styling. The spiral flounce is best sewn with a narrow rolled hem and both of its width seam allowance should be as narrow as possible (default is 10 mm). Click Draw to render the pattern.

Spiral Flounce Pattern for Neckline

Armscye Measurement

Computed Armhole Girth

To make the Sleeve Cap flounce, we need to know the actual measurement of the bodice armscye. We get this measurement after we are happy with the bodice styling and have clicked Draw to render a pattern that we are satisfied with (smooth no-ease sleeve cap that doesn’t need any further tweaking, etc.). Look for the Computed armhole girth measurement (highlighted in the above picture) for the actual armscye girth, i.e. 32-cm.

For this pattern, we want to design 2 Even-width flounces that meet at the top and bottom of each sleeve.  

 

Sleeve Flounce Styling

 

We enter half the Computed Armhole Girth (i.e. 16-cm) as the Flounce Length, choose Even Width as the Flounce Style, specify Flounce Width that we desire and leave the seam allowances as before. Then we click Draw to render the pattern. We need to cut 4 pieces of this pattern for the 2 sleeves.

Sleeve Flounce Pattern

Finished Product

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The post How to Design Flounces for the Neckline and Sleeve appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.

Understitching is a technique to help your facings lie flat on the innerside and hidden from view. It is used wherever facings and linings are required, such as on necklines, button openings, collars, inseam pockets, etc. In this article you will find resources to help you understitch.

Collen G. Lea of Fashion Sewing Blog TV, demonstrates understitching in areas beyond facings, such as collars.

The post How to Understitch appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.

This tutorial is useful when you need to construct a garment with a rounded Jewel neckline. This tutorial uses a fusible interfacing to line the neck facing itself, but this is really optional and up to you. The technique is pretty much standard and is very useful for beginner sewers.

The post How to Sew Neck Facing to Curve Necklines appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.

Knowing how to take an accurate neckline measurement for a made-to-measure garment is critical to ensure a good fit and how the garment will hang on the wearer. In this tutorial, you will learn yet another technique that is more explainatory and what we call more “natural”. In addition, for our observant Jewish readers, this technique satisfies the modest requirements for a kosher neckline.

When you purchase a commercial pattern or ready-to-wear garment for women, you will probably notice that the pattern or garment is based on the bust-waist-hips measurement. But for a men’s garment or pattern, you will most likely notice the neck measurement, in order to determine the collar size. Why is that? Most likely, the neck size for a woman’s pattern is a derived value from the bust measurement and graded based on standard proportions of the female body. Many pattern drafting techniques also employ unique formulae to compute the neck size or derive it from other measurements of the body. Nevertheless, there are just as many made-to-measure drafting techniques that require taking accurate neck line measurements. How they take this measurement differ from technique to technique.

Here is our technique for measuring a natural neckline that makes sense.

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Download this free tutorial to measure natural neckline.

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The post How to Measure Natural Neckline appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.