In this tutorial, we will show you step by step how to assemble the turnback notched sleeve cuff which you can design in My Sloper Sleeve.

Design

You can design this sleeve in My Sloper Sleeve, My Sloper Blouse or My Sloper Dress.

Pick the correct sleeve in the Sleeve Style box.

Sewing Tutorial

This sleeve cuff is turned back not at the seam line but at a fold. It’s seam line is a bit higher up on the sleeve.  Watch this video to learn how to assemble it.

Download this Tutorial

You can download a high resolution PDF version of this tutorial.

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The post How to Sew the Turnback Notched Sleeve Cuff Tutorial appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.

Design Sleeve Pattern

Bodice blocks come in various fit and styles.  Fitted bodice blocks and industrial bodice blocks may be designed with the front bodice either wider or narrower than the back bodice at the chest line. Looser fitting bodice blocks are generally designed to be symmetric in both front and back because of the extra chest ease that provides wearing comfort and modesty.  Some bodice blocks are designed to have a forward shoulder line, which means the front bodice armscye length is shorter on than the back bodice armscye length.

Here are a few of the sample bodice blocks without seam allowance that are generated from a commercial pattern making software.

Fitted Bodice Blocks with Symmetric Sleeve Block

Fitted Bodice Blocks with Symmetric Sleeve Block for Women

Notice the varying front and back armscye lengths for the bodice and the symmetric sleeve block.  When we add up the dimensions, the sleeve generates a 5.3-cm ease at the sleeve cap.  This type of sleeve requires a Set-In Sleeve sewing technique.

Simple Bodice Blocks with Symmetric Sleeve Block

Simple Dartless Bodice Block with Symmetric Sleeve Block

These blocks are similar in nature to the Fitted Bodice Blocks above except that the bodice blocks do not come with bust and waist darts.  With a 5.3-cm ease at the sleeve cap, the symmetric sleeve will also require a Set-In Sleeve sewing technique.

Industrial Fitted Bodice Blocks with Asymmetric Sleeve Block

Industrial Bodice and Sleeve Blocks for Women

These industrial blocks are designed to be narrower on the front bodice and wider on the back bodice at the chest line. The asymmetric sleeve block produces a 0.8-cm ease at the front sleeve cap and a 4.2-cm ease at the back sleeve cap.  This type of sleeve also requires a Set-In Sleeve sewing technique.

 Flat Bodice Blocks with Symmetric Sleeve Block

Child’s Flat Bodice Blocks with Symmetric Sleeve Block

These blocks are designed for children.  Note that symmetric bodice armscye lengths as well as the symmetric sleeve.  Even then, the 4.0-cm ease at the sleeve cap will require the Set-In Sleeve sewing technique.

Men’s Bodice Blocks with Symmetric Sleeve Block

These blocks are designed for a man’s measurement.  Like the child’s block, the symmetric sleeve will require a Set-In Sleeve sewing technique due to the relatively small but noticeable 2.9-cm ease at the sleeve cap.

Set-In Sleeve Sewing Technique

This technique for sewing a sleeve requires a lot of patience and time and mastery in order to overcome the challenges of producing a smooth pucker-less sleeve cap at the shoulder and armscye.  What if there is a better way to produce smooth pucker-less sleeve caps, by reducing the ease at the sleeve cap?

My Sloper Sleeve

My Sloper Sleeve comes to the rescue.  Over the past few years, KosherPatterns.com has been producing the My Sloper series pattern-making software for the modesty-conscious consumer.  Our goal is to design sleeves that are easy to sew by eliminating the ease at the sleeve cap. Our earlier designs have been successful in eliminating this extra ease, however, they have required a little bit of tweaking at the sleeve cap in order to produce a smooth sleeve cap design that’s pleasing to the eye.  Recently, with gratitude to G-d, we have improved our design to remove this extra “tweaking.”  This tweaking is now done automatically by the software without the need for manual intervention by the consumer.  We are very  pleased to announce My Sloper Sleeve 3.0, a lightweight, portable, standalone Web application that runs on Firefox for the best delivery.

My Sloper Sleeve 3.0

My Sloper Sleeve 3.0 supports 13 sleeve hem styles from the basic full sleeve to sleeve with cuffs.  There are 3 turnback cuff styles, 3 buttoned cuff styles, 2 elastic cased styles, 1 gathered hem with band cuff and these additional cuffs: flair, frill and tulip.

My Sloper Sleeve 3.0 Hem Styles

5 Critical Pieces of Data

5 Critical Sleeve Data

We need 5 pieces of critical data for My Sloper Sleeve 3.0.  The first two, the Overarm length to create a full-length sleeve and the Bicep Girth are needed from the subject.  The third, the Bicep Ease, is needed for a comfortable wearing ease.  6-8 cm is recommended for comfort and modesty.  The last two are obtainable from the front and back Bodice blocks.  Measure the armscye length from a quarter Bodice block for the front and back.

Bodice Armscye Lengths from Front and Back Bodice Blocks

A sample Sleeve Block generated from My Sloper Sleeve 3.0 is as follows:

Sample Sleeve Block from My Sloper Sleeve

Use the values printed on the Sleeve Block to transfer the Sleeve Cap notches to our Bodice blocks.

Sleeve Cap Measurements

Use the Lower Sleeve Cap Lengths for the placement of the Bodice Armhole notches for front and back. Use either one of the Upper Sleeve Cap Lengths to determine the top notch of the Sleeve Cap that matches the shoulder line.

Sleeve Cap Sample

My Sloper Sleeve 3.0 Advantages

Use My Sloper Sleeve 3.0 to:

1. Add sleeves to a sleeveless pattern.
2. Replace an existing sleeve pattern with a No-Ease Sleeve Cap pattern from My Sloper Sleeve.  With zero sleeve cap ease, sewing sleeves will be a delight again.
3. Replace a short sleeve pattern with a full-length sleeve pattern from My Sloper Sleeve.
4. Add variation to the basic sleeve pattern from the free My Sloper Blouse Demo and My Sloper Dress Demo.

How to Sew a No-Ease Sleeve

Use the flat construction method to attach the no-ease sleeve to our bodice.

Part 1. Attach Sleeve Cap to Bodice Armhole

Flat Construction Method

1. Firstly, sew the front and back bodices at the shoulder line.
2. With the bodices on the bottom and the sleeve on top, right sides facing, match the sleeve cap notches to the bodice armhole notches.  The middle notch of the sleeve cap should match the shoulder line.
3. Start sewing from one end of the sleeve cap to the first notch.
4. Beyond this notch, sew slowly and carefully to the second middle notch located at the top of the sleeve cap where it matches the shoulder.
5. Then, sew pass this second notch to the third notch.
6. Continue sewing from third notch to the end of sleeve cap.

Between the first and third notches,  we may notice ripples on the sleeve curve while we sew and this is normal.  We are trying to match a convex (outward) sleeve curve to a concave (inward) armhole curve.  What we have to watch out for is that the bottom bodice fabric remains flat at the entire time when we sew between the notches.  In our experience, any pucker that may appear is not on the sleeve cap, but on the bodice armhole itself.  So, remember to flatten the bottom bodice fabric when we sew between the notches.

Part 2. Sew Sleeve and Bodice Side Seams

Flat Method Construction Continuation

1. Turn the bodices and sleeve with their wrong sides facing us.
2. Fold sleeve in half right sides facing and match the front and back bodices right sides facing.
3. Starting from the sleeve hem, stitch along the sleeve side seam towards the armhole and continue along the bodice side seams until the bodice hem.

Sample Sleeves

No Ease Sleeve CAp

Download FREE Demo

Watch the Trailer

The post Design Sleeve Pattern with My Sloper Sleeve 3.0 appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.

A plain sleeve can be styled to have a cuff. This picture tutorial illustrates the turnback cuff, which can be made from the same fabric as the sleeve or from a different contrasting fabric. Read on to learn how to sew such a sleeve.

Download a high-quality PDF for these two pictures, by adding this product in your shopping bag.

The post How to Sew a Turnback Sleeve Cuff Tutorial appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.

This video tutorial shows you how to assemble a Sleeve with Pleated Opening, Placket and Buttoned Cuff. Enjoy!

The post How to Sew a Pleated Sleeve Opening with Placket and Buttoned Cuff appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.

This video tutorial shows you how to assemble a Sleeve with Gathered Opening and matching Band.

The post How to Sew a Gathered Sleeve Opening with Band appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.

This video tutorial shows you how to assemble a Sleeve with Gathered Opening and matching Buttoned Cuff.

The post How to Sew a Gathered Sleeve Opening with Buttoned Cuff appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.

Slotted Sleeve with Underlay

This tutorial shows you how to easily design a slotted seam in the center of a sleeve with a hidden underlay of contrasting fabric. It is so simple with My Sloper! Read on to find out how.

Designing a Slotted Seam

Try My Sloper today!

The post How to Design a Slotted Sleeve with Underlay appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.

One of the most challenging tasks of a dressmaking is to attach sleeves to a bodice. Especially “Set-in” sleeves, where it involves easing the sleeve into the armhole. Wouldn’t it be nice if we could sew nice high-cap sleeves that fit easily and smoothly? Find out more.

My Sloper easily draws the no-ease sleeve cap for any size. It just needs a little bit of tweaking sometimes.

Sewing a no-ease sleeve cap is rather painless as well.

It involves two steps for the beginner.

1. Baste the sleeve cap to the bodice, right sides facing, matching the sleeve notch to the bodice armhole notch.
2. Sew with a sewing machine along the seam line.
3. For the seasoned dressmaker, just skip the basting step and sew the sleeve cap directly onto the armhole, matching both notches.

No Ease Sleeve Cap Pattern

Sewn No Ease Sleeve Cap

Try out My Sloper today!

The post How to Design the No-ease Sleeve Cap appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.

Here is a step-by-step video tutorial and guide to assemble a blouse with collar that does not require a neck facing, an add-on buttonstand and no-ease sleeve.

To purchase this tutorial in high-quality PDF, please add this product to your cart.

The post How to Sew a Blouse with Collar, Add-on Button-stand and No-ease Sleeve appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.

This tutorial shows you how to fine-tune your no-ease sleeve cap when drafting with older versions of My Sloper (< Version 3.0). My Sloper makes every attempt to draft a zero-ease sleeve cap that matches the bodice armhole. It uses an algorithm based on sound mathematical geometry principles.
However, we also employ a feature called, “The Sleeve Notch Control”, which allows the dressmaker to tweak its value to provide a more visually-appealing and smoother curve for the sleeve cap. Here are two sample sleeve cap patterns that need tweaking.

This sleeve cap needs tweaking

Tweak the Sleeve Notch Control value

To tweak this sleeve cap, simply increase the “Sleeve Notch Control” value by several notches, from 0.55 to 0.6. Then click on the Draw button to redraw the pattern.

Better Smoother Sleeve Cap

The resulting sleeve cap curve is now more pleasing to the eye. You may have to repeat this step until you find the best smooth curve for the sleeve cap.

Sample 2

This sleeve cap needs tweaking as well

However, the solution to this is not to increase the sleeve notch, but to decrease it from 0.55 to 0.5. You may also use finer-grain tweaking in 0.1 increment, until you get the best curve.

Better, Smoother Sleeve Cap

Test-drive My Sloper today. Download a DEMO copy.

Update

Test-drive My Sloper Sleeve 3.0 that eliminates the need to tweak the sleeve cap.  Check it out by reading this article.

The post How to Tweak No-ease Sleeve Cap appeared first on KosherPatterns ®.